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　　三九養(yǎng)生堂記者 鄧肯·蓋伊 報道

精彩|　　蔬??(shu)菜??(cai)表?(biao)面??(mian)如??(ru)能??(neng)適??(shi)時?(shi)適??(shi)量??(liang)結(jié)??(jie)霜??(shuang)??，就??(jiu)可??(ke)借??(jie)自??(zi)然??(ran)之??(zhi)力??(li)提??(ti)煉??(lian)出??(chu)植??(zhi)株??(zhu)內(nèi)??(nei)的??(de)糖??(tang)分??(fen)??，形??(xing)成??(cheng)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)時??(shi)節(jié)??(jie)特??(te)有??(you)的??(de)美??(mei)味??(wei)??。??其??(qi)原??(yuan)理??(li)在?(zai)于??(yu)??，植??(zhi)株??(zhu)在??(zai)氣??(qi)溫??(wen)驟?(zhou)降??(jiang)時?(shi)會??(hui)開??(kai)啟??(qi)“防??(fang)凍??(dong)保??(bao)護??(hu)模?(mo)式??(shi)”??，將??(jiang)體??(ti)內(nèi)??(nei)淀??(dian)粉??(fen)轉(zhuǎn)??(zhuan)化??(hua)為??(wei)糖??(tang)分??(fen)??，使?(shi)蔬??(shu)菜??(cai)味??(wei)道??(dao)變??(bian)得??(de)更??(geng)加?(jia)清??(qing)甜??(tian)可??(ke)口??(kou)??。古??(gu)人??(ren)早??(zao)就??(jiu)發(fā)??(fa)現(xiàn)??(xian)了??(le)霜??(shuang)打??(da)菜??(cai)的??(de)秘??(mi)密??(mi)??，農(nóng)??(nong)諺??(yan)有?(you)“霜??(shuang)打??(da)蔬?(shu)菜??(cai)分??(fen)外??(wai)甜??(tian)”的??(de)說??(shuo)法??(fa)??。北??(bei)方??(fang)地??(di)區(qū)??(qu)常??(chang)見??(jian)的??(de)“過??(guo)冬??(dong)菜??(cai)”大??(da)白??(bai)菜??(cai)尤??(you)得??(de)霜?(shuang)打??(da)之??(zhi)意??(yi)趣??(qu)??，經(jīng)??(jing)霜?(shuang)的??(de)白??(bai)菜??(cai)用??(yong)來??(lai)腌??(yan)漬??(zi)酸??(suan)菜??(cai)??，色??(se)澤??(ze)澄??(cheng)明??(ming)??，味?(wei)道??(dao)芳??(fang)甜??(tian)??，如??(ru)果??(guo)缺??(que)少??(shao)霜??(shuang)打??(da)的??(de)考??(kao)驗??(yan)??，漬??(zi)出??(chu)來?(lai)的??(de)酸??(suan)菜??(cai)不??(bu)但??(dan)鮮??(xian)美??(mei)不??(bu)及??(ji)??，后??(hou)味??(wei)也??(ye)總??(zong)嫌??(xian)苦??(ku)澀??(se)??。　　民??(min)諺??(yan)“一??(yi)年??(nian)補??(bu)透??(tou)透??(tou)??，不??(bu)如??(ru)補??(bu)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)”??，霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)正??(zheng)值??(zhi)秋??(qiu)末??(mo)??，是??(shi)樂?(le)享??(xiang)“秋??(qiu)實??(shi)”與??(yu)“補??(bu)嘴??(zui)空??(kong)”的??(de)好??(hao)時?(shi)節(jié)??(jie)??。??與??(yu)其??(qi)他??(ta)果??(guo)蔬?(shu)相??(xiang)比??(bi)??，柿??(shi)子??(zi)在??(zai)“霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)美?(mei)食??(shi)排??(pai)行??(xing)榜??(bang)”中??(zhong)可??(ke)謂??(wei)名?(ming)列??(lie)前?(qian)茅??(mao)??。北??(bei)方??(fang)俗?(su)語??(yu)云??(yun)“七?(qi)月??(yue)紅??(hong)棗?(zao)八??(ba)月??(yue)梨??(li)??，九??(jiu)月??(yue)柿??(shi)子??(zi)趕??(gan)上?(shang)集??(ji)”??，經(jīng)??(jing)歷??(li)秋??(qiu)露??(lu)凝??(ning)霜??(shuang)的??(de)洗??(xi)禮??(li)??，柿??(shi)葉??(ye)紅??(hong)若??(ruo)霜??(shuang)楓??(feng)??，枝??(zhi)頭??(tou)朱??(zhu)實??(shi)累??(lei)累??(lei)??，給??(gei)蕭??(xiao)瑟??(se)深??(shen)秋?(qiu)帶?(dai)來?(lai)明??(ming)艷??(yan)與??(yu)豐??(feng)收??(shou)的??(de)色??(se)彩??(cai)??。由??(you)于??(yu)枝??(zhi)柔??(rou)果??(guo)重??(zhong)??，柿??(shi)子??(zi)必??(bi)須??(xu)在??(zai)半?(ban)熟??(shu)稍??(shao)硬??(ying)時??(shi)摘??(zhai)下??(xia)??，故??(gu)民??(min)間??(jian)有??(you)所??(suo)謂??(wei)“霜?(shuang)降?(jiang)不??(bu)摘??(zhai)柿??(shi)??，硬??(ying)柿??(shi)變??(bian)軟??(ruan)柿??(shi)”之??(zhi)說??(shuo)??。脫??(tuo)澀??(se)后??(hou)的??(de)柿??(shi)子??(zi)皮??(pi)薄?(bo)肉??(rou)鮮??(xian)味??(wei)美??(mei)??，清??(qing)熱??(re)潤??(run)肺??(fei)生??(sheng)津??(jin)??，自??(zi)古??(gu)至??(zhi)今??(jin)不??(bu)乏??(fa)嗜??(shi)食??(shi)的??(de)擁??(yong)躉??(dun)??。

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